My club fitting and building is based around what I call The Ten Pillars of Club Fitting. It's the ten aspects of the golf club that, when fitted or altered, have the most impact on your game.
If it sounds like I'm speaking a foreign language, check out my article on how to really buy golf clubs. When we focus on these ten specs, you get a golf club (or set of clubs) that are longer and straighter- and help you lower your scores!
While an in-person fitting is ideal, I have a comprehensive online form you can fill out. Best of all, it's FREE!
Seriously, any kind of fitting is better than no fitting, and my years of experience can help pinpoint the specs you need to get the right sticks for your game, even online.
If you truly want to hit longer, straighter golf shots, a fitting should be the foundation on which everything's built on.
To get started, all you have to do is click the button!
The fitting form requires an email signup. Yes, you'll be receiving articles and stuff from me, but you can unsubscribe at any time.
The bonus is, I'll also be talking to you one-on-one to fine-tune your fit.
NOTE TWO: You can skip the fitting form and contact me for a one-on-one. We'll do an interview process through email, to ensure you're getting the best clubs you can get.
Call (269-535-0226) or email me to set up an appointment. The choices for clubs are the same as in person as it is online.
Cost of components plus $15 per club*
Cost of components plus $25 per club*
Cost of components plus $35 per club*
* Denotes set price. This is the price you pay per club if you buy a set of clubs. If you buy on an individual club basis, add $10 to the cost for each club.
We determine the specs (the Hero Specs). No fitting form will be required. This is, in a nutshell, a basic assembly procedure. Shafts and grips will be weight-sorted, with the lightest going in the lowest-lofted club, and the heaviest going in the shortest.
This plan includes all the aspects of Plan A plus swingweight matching, grip weight matching, and shaft pre-assembly flex testing by frequency meter.
We make every effort to match the shaft CPMs, but if our inventory level won't allow this, the most flexible shafts go in the longer clubs and the stiffest go in the shortest clubs. A frequency meter will be used to test flex.
This is our pro-line service where we do everything we can possibly do to match the clubs to each other and the client's requirements. In addition to all the aspects of Plans A and B, we spend as much time as reasonably necessary interviewing the client and evaluating their swing (if the golfer is an in-person client).
All components are gram weight checked and matched. Each shaft is critically examined for weight and balance point and tested for flex characteristics and best orientation in the frequency meter prior to trimming. After assembly each club's loft is checked against the design specification and adjusted if necessary. We also dynamic lie adjust every club to the customer's swing.
In all cases, we unconditionally guarantee the clubs for material failure and workmanship, but NOT for playability or damage due to fair wear and tear or abuse.
Bear in mind that the club is actually my second product. My primary product is my service. I'm here to do the very best job I can to help improve your game.
If you have a problem with a club, you can come back to me and get immediate service. You don't have to wait 2-3 weeks for service from a faceless, no-name employee of an international conglomerate!
Keep in mind that I'm not limited to these brands; I only have a more personal relationship with them.
A few more brand examples:
And more! There are a ton of under-the-radar brands that have the same high standards as the stuff you see on TV. I'm also not above using clones from reputable brands, if that's all your budget allows. I've used some in the past myself!
I'm True Temper Certified, as well. You have all the True Temper, Project X, and Grafalloy options, too!
"Retrofitting" is taking your older or current golf clubs and breathing some new life into them. Here's an article I wrote about it.
If your swing changes, but you don't want to shell out a few hundred dollars for a new set of irons, it's possible to create new specs with your current set to get them back to helping you play better golf.
Old grips are removed, and new grips are applied. Tape and solvent are used; air installation by request.
*New grips will need to be purchased.
Loft and lie angles can move through normal use. It's a good idea to have them checked at least once a year.
Is your old shaft not working for you? Did it break? A new one can easily be installed!
**If reshaft involves replacing a broken model, every effort will be made to match the new shaft to the old, if desired.
A new grip will need to be purchased, as well, unless it was installed with air.
Length can be added or removed upon request.
Note that a new grip will have to be purchased, unless the current model was installed with air.
If you want your club head feel to be heavier, that can be done. I remove the head, add a tip pin, and reinstall the head. However, I won't go over 10 grams; going over that will shift the head's "sweet spot" closer to the heel, making it harder for you to hit. That's not the goal, in my opinion.
***Note that weight can be removed... but it's not encouraged. Grinding away metal to reduce swing weight can alter a club's playability. Every effort will be made to grind from the least conspicuous spot, but please note that this alteration can not be undone!
To get started, just contact me. Let me know what you want done. If you're unsure, I'll ask you some questions about your game, and based on the answers I'll come up with a plan. If you agree, I'll send you an invoice. After I receive your clubs, I'll work my magic.
Just click the button below to get started!
Sign up for the email- it's free!